Spaghetti alla Carbonara The traditional Roman recipe with guanciale, egg, and pecorino

25min · Difficulty: medium

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This is spaghetti carbonara, the Roman way. There is no cream in this dish. We have been saying this for years and will keep saying it. The creaminess comes from egg yolks, Pecorino Romano, and the starchy water the pasta cooked in. Those three things, handled correctly and off the heat, produce a sauce that coats every strand.

The technique is the point. Everything happens after the pan comes off the burner. The pasta residual warmth sets the eggs. More heat than that and you have scrambled eggs with pasta in them.

Guanciale, not pancetta. Pecorino, not Parmesan. The distinction matters.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara plated, with the Gusta spaghetti alongside

Ingredients

Equipment

Preparation

  1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt it lightly. Carbonara is already salty from the guanciale and pecorino, so go lighter than usual.
  2. Remove the guanciale rind and cut into strips about 1/2 in wide. Place in a cold dry skillet with no oil. Render over medium heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the fat is translucent and the meat is lightly crisp. Remove from heat. Leave the fat in the pan.
  3. In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, whole egg, and grated Pecorino. Season generously with black pepper. Stir until thick and smooth.
  4. Cook the spaghetti for 9 minutes. Before draining, reserve 2 cups of pasta water. Stir 2 tbsp of hot pasta water into the egg mixture to temper it.
  5. Drain the pasta and immediately add it to the skillet with the guanciale and fat. Toss well off the heat.
  6. Pour the egg and cheese mixture over the pasta. Toss quickly and constantly for 60-90 seconds. The goal is a creamy, velvety coating. Add reserved pasta water 1 tbsp at a time if the sauce tightens.
  7. Serve immediately with extra grated Pecorino and cracked black pepper.
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Chef's note

If the sauce seizes or tightens, a splash of pasta water and fast tossing almost always brings it back. Work quickly. The window between creamy and scrambled is about 30 seconds.

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